U.S. Waterproofing | Causes of a Leaking Basement – Some Aren’t in…

Caus­es of a Leak­ing Base­ment – Some Aren’t in the Base­ment at All

Sep 17, 2014 • By Matthew Stock.

Yard Drainage

One of the ques­tions we are most often asked is: Why does my base­ment leak?”

This is usu­al­ly an easy ques­tion for an expe­ri­enced base­ment water­proof­ing pro­fes­sion­al to answer – pro­vid­ed it isn’t being asked over the phone or at a back­yard bar­be­cue. Give the oppor­tu­ni­ty to inspect the base­ment and the area sur­round­ing the house, a pro can diag­nose the prob­lem pret­ty accu­rate­ly, some­times with the aid of a gar­den hose.

As expect­ed, many of the direct caus­es of a leak­ing base­ment are to be found by look­ing inside the base­ment itself:

Non-struc­tur­al wall cracks, the most com­mon cause of leak­ing in a poured con­crete base­ment, can be found almost any­where on the wall although they often emanate from win­dow and util­i­ty openings;

Cove seep­age that is forced into the base­ment between the floor and wall is eas­i­ly spot­ted when damp­ness or pud­dles show up in those corners;

Wet or damp walls, par­tic­u­lar­ly those con­struct­ed of mason­ry, are a sure sign that water is seep­ing through bad mor­tar joints or porous mason­ry units;

Water run­ning in trick­les (or streams) down a wall indi­cates that the base­ment is leak­ing over the top of the base­ment wall; and,

Damp­ness or seep­age along cracks in the con­crete floor indi­cates that hydro­sta­t­ic pres­sure is forc­ing water in through the cracks.

All of these caus­es of a leak­ing base­ment are eas­i­ly spot­ted and a com­pe­tent base­ment water­proof­ing con­trac­tor will be able to repair them per­ma­nent­ly. How­ev­er, there are a num­ber of fac­tors that occur out­side that can cause a leak­ing base­ment, sev­er­al of which can be pre­vent­ed or repaired by the home­own­er; oth­ers will require pro­fes­sion­al assistance.

The Under­ly­ing Cause of a Leak­ing Base­ment is Water in the Ground

The com­mon thread among all of the exte­ri­or caus­es of a leak­ing base­ment is that they all con­tribute to water in the ground sur­round­ing the home’s foun­da­tion. Sat­u­rat­ed soil sur­round­ing a foun­da­tion gets that way for one of two rea­sons: the water table ris­es from pro­longed rain or oth­er fac­tors or soil clos­er to the sur­face is inun­dat­ed with water from rain­fall or snowmelt.

When this soil becomes sat­u­rat­ed, the soil expands and cre­ates pres­sure against the foun­da­tion walls. If breach­es in the walls already exist, such as any one of the fac­tors dis­cussed ear­li­er, the pres­sure will force water in. If not, extend­ed pres­sure will cause cracks in the wall and cause a leak­ing basement.

Of course, there’s not much a home­own­er or a water­proof­ing pro­fes­sion­al can do about rain and snow. How­ev­er, there are a num­ber of things that can be done to man­age water prop­er­ly out­side the home and to avoid wors­en­ing the sit­u­a­tion through poor design or lack of main­te­nance. All of these are done out­side the basement.

Find­ing and Fix­ing Exte­ri­or Caus­es of a Leak­ing Basement

Base­ment water­proof­ing pro­fes­sion­als use the term water man­age­ment” to describe steps that can be tak­en to prop­er­ly han­dle water that occurs out­side the home to pre­vent it from leak­ing into the base­ment. All of these rec­om­mend­ed actions are relat­ed either direct­ly or indi­rect­ly to water management.

Keep Rain Gut­ters Clean and Flow­ing – In most parts of the coun­try, hous­es com­mon­ly have rain gut­ter sys­tems installed along the edges of their roofs. Typ­i­cal­ly, only res­i­dents of the South­west and south­ern Cal­i­for­nia expe­ri­ence lit­tle enough rain to safe­ly forego gutters.

Sur­pris­ing­ly, even mod­er­ate rains pro­duce a tremen­dous amount of water. For exam­ple, the aver­age home in the Unit­ed States has 2,2002,600 square feet of roof sur­face. Just one inch of rain falling on a solid­ly aver­age 2,500 square foot roof will dump 1,500 gal­lons of water on the roof, enough to fill a 10-foot diam­e­ter above-ground pool to a depth of 2.5 feet. That’s a lot of water!

With­out gut­ters, all of that water would run down the slope of the roof and pour off the edges in sheets, land­ing on the soil below. With­out some type of man­age­ment, this water will soak into the soil and cre­ate the sat­u­rat­ed con­di­tions described above. 

When gut­ters are clogged, they might as well not be there at all because water will run right over them and end up next to the foun­da­tion. In most sit­u­a­tions, clean­ing the gut­ters of leaves, nee­dles and oth­er debris in spring and fall will keep them open and run­ning all year. This is a job that can be done by many home­own­ers or fair­ly inex­pen­sive­ly by a handy­man or spe­cial­ized service.

Extend Down­spouts at Least Ten Feet from the Foun­da­tion – Anoth­er vul­ner­a­ble point in a home’s water man­age­ment sys­tem is the set of down­spouts that car­ry water col­lect­ed by the gut­ters down to the sur­face. The grav­i­ta­tion­al flow of water will usu­al­ly keep down­spouts clean but, if they sim­ply ter­mi­nate at ground lev­el, they are dump­ing all of that rain water, now con­cen­trat­ed in only a few spots, onto the soil at the base of the foundation.

That one-inch rain­fall will then cause near­ly 400 gal­lons of water to end up at the cor­ners of a home with a typ­i­cal four-down­spout arrangement!

A word of expla­na­tion here about why the soil around the foun­da­tion is so vul­ner­a­ble to water: When a home is built, an exca­va­tor digs out a large bowl in the earth for the con­struc­tion of the foun­da­tion that typ­i­cal­ly extends at least 10 feet beyond the foundation’s perime­ter. After the foun­da­tion is done, the edges of this bowl are back­filled with soil from the excavation.

Even though the back­filled soil is com­pact­ed mechan­i­cal­ly, it remains loos­er than the undis­turbed soil around it, leav­ing it more porous and expan­sive and more like­ly to become sat­u­rat­ed. This zone around the foun­da­tion is the tar­get of the water man­age­ment process­es dis­cussed here.

So, extend­ing down­spouts beyond the 10-foot mark will keep the con­cen­trat­ed dis­charge from rain on the roof from sat­u­rat­ing the vul­ner­a­ble soil close to the foun­da­tion. There are a num­ber of above-ground exten­sions avail­able from big box hard­ware stores but they look messy, have to be removed to mow the lawn and have a ten­den­cy to fall off.

An under­ground down­spout exten­sion, installed by a pro­fes­sion­al, will car­ry water off to a bub­bler pot, dry well, storm sew­er or out to daylight.

Make Sure Grad­ing and Land­scap­ing Are Cor­rect – After a house is fin­ished, the con­trac­tor will grade the sur­round­ing soil as the basis for a lawn. Typ­i­cal­ly, this grade will slope away from the house and run at a gen­tle angle down to the street. This will allow rain water and snowmelt to run off the grade and flow to storm sew­ers or open storm drainage.

If the con­trac­tor makes a mis­take in the grade or fails to grade at all, a neg­a­tive” slope can result where the grade runs toward the house. This will cause water to flow toward the foun­da­tion and increase the sat­u­ra­tion of the soil in the 10-foot zone.

Even when the grad­ing is cor­rect, land­scap­ers and DIY­ers can cre­ate a leak­ing base­ment by not tak­ing water man­age­ment into con­sid­er­a­tion when plant­i­ng or cre­at­ing hard­scape around the house. 

If a land­scape plan includes berms, plant­i­ng box­es or retain­ing walls close to the foun­da­tion, these addi­tions can retain water and increase sat­u­ra­tion. Prop­er­ly designed with open­ings for drainage, land­scap­ing can beau­ti­fy the home with­out endan­ger­ing the basement.

The same applies to hard­scape – patios, decks, side­walks, wing walls and oth­er per­ma­nent con­stric­tion adja­cent to the foun­da­tion. If improp­er­ly sloped or insuf­fi­cient­ly flashed or sealed, these improve­ments can cause water to flow toward the foun­da­tion, often result­ing in seep­age over the top of the foun­da­tion wall. 

Don’t Ignore the Win­dow Wells – Base­ment win­dows bring much-need­ed light and fresh air into a base­ment space but they can also be a source of leak­age, par­tic­u­lar­ly when the win­dow well is not prop­er­ly installed or maintained.

Win­dow wells should have drains in the bot­tom to allow rain and snowmelt to flow out of the well and not turn the base­ment win­dow into an aquar­i­um. A clogged or miss­ing drain will cause a leak­ing base­ment and should be cleaned, replaced or installed.

Win­dow well cov­ers are essen­tial to keep­ing out debris that will clog the drain. Plas­tic bub­bles from the big box hard­ware store don’t last long and can cre­ate a ter­rar­i­um that encour­ages the growth of weeds. The best option is a cus­tom-fit­ted, steel-rein­forced poly­car­bon­ate cov­er that will pro­vide long-lived pro­tec­tion and keep out debris and small animals.

Oth­er than main­tain­ing gut­ters and land­scap­ing, a home­own­er faced with any of these issues out­side their foun­da­tion will need the advice and ser­vices of a base­ment water­proof­ing con­trac­tor to stop or pre­vent a leak­ing base­ment. At U.S. Water­proof­ing, we have as much expe­ri­ence man­ag­ing water out­side the base­ment as we do in keep­ing it out once it’s got­ten inside. It’s a part of the com­pre­hen­sive ser­vice we’ve pro­vid­ed to more than 300,000 sat­is­fied cus­tomers since our found­ing in 1957. Why not ask for our free advice?

Tags: causes leaking basement, leaking basement causes

Previous Article | Learning Center Archive | Next Article