U.S. Waterproofing | How to Fix a Wet Basement Floor

How to Fix a Wet Base­ment Floor

Jul 1, 2014 • By Matthew Stock.

How do I Determine the Source of Basement Water Problems?

One of the tell­tale signs of a base­ment water prob­lem is step­ping into a pud­dle on the base­ment floor. 

Of course, any water that comes into the base­ment for any rea­son – hydro­sta­t­ic or lat­er­al pres­sure, gut­ter spillover or over­sat­u­rat­ed soil around the foun­da­tion – or from any source – cracks, bad mor­tar joints or the cove joint – ends up on the base­ment floor. How­ev­er, there are cer­tain types of water prob­lems asso­ci­at­ed with the base­ment floor and a home­own­er that wants to keep it dry is well advised to under­stand them.

First of all, it helps to under­stand what a base­ment floor is and what it isn’t. When a foun­da­tion is built, the first thing that is con­struct­ed after the exca­va­tion is done are the foot­ings, broad slabs of poured con­crete that describe the perime­ter of the foun­da­tion and help spread the weight of the struc­ture. After the foot­ings have cured, the walls are built, either by pour­ing con­crete into forms or build­ing them from con­crete blocks and mortar.

After all the struc­tur­al work of the foun­da­tion is done, the soil in the mid­dle is smoothed out even with the tops of the foot­ings, a vapor bar­ri­er is laid on top of it and the base­ment floor is poured. The con­crete in the base­ment floor is usu­al­ly only two to three inch­es thick and the floor serves no struc­tur­al pur­pose but is there only to pro­vide a clean, flat sur­face in the base­ment. The floor is essen­tial­ly sit­ting on top of the foot­ings and butted up against the wall.

There are sev­er­al sources of water seep­age in and around the floor.

Cove Seepage

When con­crete is poured dur­ing the con­struc­tion of a home, new con­crete does not bond to old con­crete. For exam­ple, when poured con­crete foun­da­tion walls are con­struct­ed on top of poured con­crete foot­ings as described above, the wall does not bond to the foot­ings, which are already cured. In order to pre­vent move­ment of the wall at the foot­ing lev­el, foun­da­tion builders cre­ate what is called a key­way” to lock them together.

When the foot­ings are poured and the con­crete is fresh, a spe­cial­ly shaped form is insert­ed into the con­crete to cre­ate a tapered chan­nel down the mid­dle of each foot­ing. When the wall is poured on top of it, the wall forms a tab in that chan­nel that, when the wall is ful­ly cured, locks the foot­ing and wall togeth­er and pre­vents move­ment at the base of the wall.

Even though the foot­ing and wall are mechan­i­cal­ly attached the wall and foot­ing did not bond so there is a tiny space in the key­way that can allow water to pass through it under hydro­sta­t­ic pres­sure. This is true also of the joint between the wall and the base­ment floor, a minute space called the cove joint. Water that pass­es through the key­way can also pass through the cove joint and end up on the base­ment floor.

Floor Cracks

Because the base­ment floor is thin, it is not uncom­mon for it to devel­op mul­ti­ple cracks that can admit water into the base­ment. There are sev­er­al ways in which these cracks can occur.

There are, of course, above­ground caus­es of floor cracks such as improp­er foot­ings for sup­port columns, heavy tools or machin­ery sit­ting on an insuf­fi­cient floor or dam­age from falling or drop­ping of heavy objects.

The most com­mon cause of base­ment floor cracks, how­ev­er, is hydro­sta­t­ic pres­sure under the floor. Every piece of res­i­den­tial prop­er­ty in the Unit­ed States has a vary­ing lev­el of ground water under it and the lev­el of this absorbed water is called the water table. The water table does not fluc­tu­ate quick­ly but is affect­ed by cli­mate and prox­im­i­ty to water, cre­at­ing very low water tables in arid states such as Ari­zona and very high ones in the Chica­go area on the shores of Lake Michigan.

The water in the ground, par­tic­u­lar­ly when the soil is very expan­sive like clay, caus­es the ground to swell and this cre­ates pres­sure under a foun­da­tion. When heavy rains are added to the mix, the pres­sure becomes even greater and, because the pres­sure moves along the path of least resis­tance, it push­es upward and can cause the thin con­crete of a base­ment floor to crack.

The same hydro­sta­t­ic pres­sure that caus­es the floor to crack will also force water through the cracks and through the cove joint, cre­at­ing pud­dles on the base­ment floor.

Per­haps not under­stand­ing hydro­sta­t­ic pres­sure and its effects, many home­own­ers have tried meth­ods of repair­ing cove seep­age or floor cracks that just don’t work.

How Not to Fix a Wet Base­ment Floor

Anoth­er fre­quent cause of water in the base­ment is a non-struc­tur­al crack in a poured con­crete base­ment wall. These cracks are best repaired by inject­ing them with expand­ing polyurethane and many home­own­ers have tried the a crack’s a crack” the­o­ry and asked to have floor cracks sim­i­lar­ly inject­ed. This doesn’t work.

Base­ment walls are up against packed soil that is essen­tial­ly push­ing back against the wall but they are not sub­ject to hydro­sta­t­ic pres­sure like the base­ment floor. Inject­ing a floor crack with expand­ing polyurethane would seal that crack but would do noth­ing to alle­vi­ate hydro­sta­t­ic pres­sure that would just cre­ate more floor cracks or wors­en cove seepage.

Same goes for try­ing to patch the cove joint with hydraulic cement or some oth­er mate­r­i­al. Even if the patch­ing were suc­cess­ful, and it’s very dif­fi­cult to force any­thing into the cove joint, it still wouldn’t change the hydro­sta­t­ic pres­sure and the ground water that cre­ates it will sim­ply find anoth­er way into the basement.

That old stand­by of DIY fill­ing and seal­ing, caulk, will not solve either prob­lem and will not adhere to floor cracks or the cove joint. Attempt­ing to use it will just cre­ate a sticky mess and waste time that could have been used for a prop­er repair.

No mat­ter what the source of seep­age that cre­ates a wet base­ment floor there is usu­al­ly only one way to cure it permanently.

Install Inte­ri­or Drain Tile

Because hydro­sta­t­ic pres­sure is the under­ly­ing cause of a wet base­ment floor it stands to rea­son that elim­i­nat­ing or alle­vi­at­ing that pres­sure would stop the seep­age. The best way to do so is to install an inte­ri­or drain tile system.

Inte­ri­or drain tile is a sys­tem of per­fo­rat­ed pipe buried beneath the base­ment floor lev­el with the foot­ings and con­nect­ed to a sump basin. Installing inte­ri­or drain tile requires remov­ing a 12-inch strip of con­crete floor around the perime­ter of the base­ment and dig­ging a trench sev­er­al inch­es deep and about a foot wide.

Once the trench is open, a lay­er of washed grav­el is placed on the bot­tom. The drain tile, per­fo­rat­ed, cor­ru­gat­ed plas­tic pipe is first wrapped in a sock” of fil­tra­tion fab­ric to keep out dirt and grav­el dust and placed on top of the stone. The pipe is con­nect­ed around the base­ment with both ends ter­mi­nat­ing in the sump basin. More washed grav­el is placed on top and lev­eled off with the top of the foot­ing and the strip of con­crete floor is replaced.

Once in place, the inte­ri­or drain tile cre­ates a pres­sure relief valve” for hydro­sta­t­ic pres­sure under the foun­da­tion and alle­vi­ates it to stop seep­age and fur­ther crack­ing of the floor. The ground water that caused the pres­sure is col­lect­ed by the drain tile and the pipe car­ries it off to the sump basin where the sump pump will dis­charge it from the basement.

Inte­ri­or drain tile will stop or pre­vent cove seep­age as well as seep­age through floor cracks. Prop­er­ly installed, it will nev­er need maintenance.

Drain tile can also be installed on the exte­ri­or of the foun­da­tion if cir­cum­stances pre­vent an inte­ri­or instal­la­tion. Exte­ri­or drain tile is done the same way, except that there is con­sid­er­ably more exca­va­tion required and rigid PVC pipe will be used instead of the flex­i­ble cor­ru­gat­ed pipe. Exte­ri­or drain tile will relieve pres­sure that can cause cove seep­age but it gen­er­al­ly will have no effect on seep­age through floor cracks. It is typ­i­cal­ly used in con­junc­tion with an exte­ri­or water­proof­ing mem­brane to solve prob­lems with seep­age through the foun­da­tion wall, such as through porous con­crete or cracked mor­tar joints.

When a home­own­er dis­cov­ers a wet base­ment floor there’s a very good chance that either cove seep­age or cracks in the floor is the cause. Deter­min­ing the source of seep­age is a job for a trained and expe­ri­enced pro­fes­sion­al and the home­own­er will need the advice and ser­vices of a skilled base­ment water­proof­ing con­trac­tor to do the repair work effec­tive­ly and per­ma­nent­ly. At U. S. Water­proof­ing, we’ve been fix­ing wet base­ment floors around Chica­go, south­east­ern Wis­con­sin and north­west Indi­ana for more than 57 years, and have installed miles of inte­ri­or drain tile. Why not ask for our free advice when your base­ment floor is wet?

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