U.S. Waterproofing | What Every Homeowner Needs to Know About Wet…

What Every Home­own­er Needs to Know About Wet Base­ments and Seepage

Dec 8, 2014 • By Matthew Stock.

Wet Basement

Own­ing a home may be the Amer­i­can Dream but for an inex­pe­ri­enced home­own­er it can often turn out to be a bit of a nightmare.

Hous­es don’t come with owner’s man­u­als. There’s no Home­own­ing for Dum­mies” book (although we may have just giv­en them an idea.) Short of a near­by par­ent, friend­ly and capa­ble neigh­bor or a well-timed episode of a DIY TV show, new home­own­ers are pret­ty much on their own when it comes to tak­ing care of their largest investment.

In our decades of fix­ing and pre­vent­ing wet base­ments we’ve learned that one thing that par­tic­u­lar­ly freaks out inex­pe­ri­enced home­own­ers is find­ing water in their base­ment. Visions of major dam­age (and major costs to repair it) some­times obscure a clear pic­ture of exact­ly what’s wrong and pre­vent the home­own­er from putting the prob­lem in the prop­er perspective.

So, for home­own­ers both new and of long tenure, we thought we’d pro­vide a look at how wet base­ments occur.

Wet Base­ments and Seep­age – A Primer

Let’s start this dis­cus­sion with some good news. A wet base­ment, although def­i­nite­ly not a prob­lem to be ignored, is gen­er­al­ly not some­thing that will destroy a home. Infil­tra­tion of water on its own won’t nec­es­sar­i­ly dam­age a foun­da­tion, although it is some­times a sign that such dam­age already exists.

The dam­age that occurs from water seep­age is most pro­found­ly felt in a fin­ished base­ment where floor­ing, fur­ni­ture and dry­wall can be dam­aged or destroyed by water. Even in an unfin­ished base­ment, water can dam­age or destroy stored goods, laun­dry appli­ances or tools.

Even if none of this occurs, there are sev­er­al good rea­sons not to ignore a seep­age prob­lem. Allow­ing water to remain present in the base­ment can increase the lev­el of humid­i­ty in the entire home, caus­ing unpleas­ant con­di­tions and mak­ing HVAC sys­tems run longer. More impor­tant­ly, water in the base­ment can be a cat­a­lyst for the growth of mold, which can cre­ate seri­ous health prob­lems for the home’s residents.

Hav­ing estab­lished that water seep­age is a prob­lem for any base­ment, the next ques­tion to con­sid­er is where does it come from? The answer is brief but not par­tic­u­lar­ly sim­ple – it comes from water in the ground. Soil that either under­lies or sur­rounds the foun­da­tion absorbs a cer­tain amount of water, the quan­ti­ty of which depends on the soil’s com­po­si­tion, amount of rain or snow­fall and topo­graph­ic con­di­tion around the home includ­ing the grade of the sur­round­ing yard and the pres­ence of out­side ele­ments such as decks and patios and the exis­tence of cer­tain land­scap­ing fea­tures such as plant­i­ng box­es and berms.

Of course, there is also water that is present in the ground regard­less of rain­fall or any of their fac­tors not­ed above. Known as the water table, this sub­sur­face water exists vir­tu­al­ly every­where, some­times close to the sur­face, some­times far below. The lev­el of this water is deter­mined by fac­tors like cli­mate and prox­im­i­ty to large bod­ies of water; it remains rel­a­tive­ly sta­ble, chang­ing only in times of drought or extreme­ly heavy rain.

One thing is true about any of this water – it cre­ates pres­sure against foun­da­tion walls and base­ment floors. It is this pres­sure that can find or cre­ate open­ings and force water into the basement.

One open­ing that already exists and is a com­mon source of water enter­ing the base­ment is one that was cre­at­ed dur­ing con­struc­tion of the home. Foun­da­tion walls, whether they are con­struct­ed of mason­ry or poured con­crete, sit on foot­ings, which are wide slabs of poured con­crete that describe the perime­ter of the foun­da­tion. Because there is no bond between the wall and the foot­ing, an infin­i­tes­i­mal gap exists there; a sim­i­lar gap exists between the foot­ing, wall and base­ment floor.

When hydro­sta­t­ic pres­sure builds below the base­ment floor, the water that cre­ates it can be forced through this gap and into the base­ment, a con­di­tion known as cove seep­age. If the base­ment floor has cracks in it, hydro­sta­t­ic pres­sure can also push water through them to cre­ate pud­dles on the base­ment floor.

Pres­sure cre­at­ed by over­sat­u­rat­ed soil is also com­mon around the foun­da­tion, not just under it. When the soil sur­round­ing foun­da­tion walls expands from absorb­ing too much water, it press­es lat­er­al­ly against the foun­da­tion and, when it becomes strong enough, can actu­al­ly cause cracks in a poured con­crete foun­da­tion wall and can crack mor­tar joints in mason­ry walls.

Of course, once these cracks occur, the pres­sure forces water through them into the base­ment, which appears as wet stains on the wall or a driz­zle run­ning down it. This is the most com­mon source of seep­age in a poured con­crete foundation.

Oth­er fac­tors can be cul­prits in caus­ing a wet base­ment as well. For exam­ple, a nor­mal grade around a house is pitched away from the build­ing so that rain water and snowmelt flow down the incline instead of back toward the house. If the grade has been done improp­er­ly caus­ing water to flow back it can enter the base­ment over the top of the foun­da­tion wall where it meets the above­ground structure.

Also, if land­scap­ing or oth­er exte­ri­or improve­ments are con­struct­ed in such a way that they hold water near the foun­da­tion, water can enter the base­ment the same way. These typ­i­cal­ly include plant­i­ng box­es and beds, berms and hard­scape like decks and patios.

Although not as com­mon as the oth­er points of entry, water can also enter a base­ment through the foun­da­tion wall itself with­out a vis­i­ble crack or open­ing. Con­crete walls can devel­op porous patch­es that usu­al­ly result from an error or omis­sion when the con­crete is poured – an air pock­et or dry spot caused by insuf­fi­cient mix­ing. Mason­ry walls are held togeth­er with mor­tar that can dete­ri­o­rate over time and allow water to seep through.

Beyond the com­mon entry points for water into a base­ment, home­own­ers should be aware of con­di­tions that can make the prob­lem worse or even cre­ate one where none exist­ed before.

The most com­mon prob­lem has to do with the man­age­ment of rain water out­side the home. To under­stand why this is impor­tant, it helps to know some­thing about the way the house was constructed.

The first step in build­ing a house is an exca­va­tion to accom­mo­date the foun­da­tion. The exca­va­tor digs out of the earth what is essen­tial­ly a large bowl where the foot­ings will be poured and the foun­da­tion walls built. When these are com­plete, the soil is back­filled around the foundation.

Before the dig­ging began, the soil was solid­ly com­pact­ed — the foun­da­tion rests on this type of soil. The back­fill, how­ev­er, is much loos­er than the undis­turbed soil and cre­ates a zone about ten feet wide around the house that is much more sus­cep­ti­ble to absorp­tion of water than the soil around it. Water end­ing up in this zone is more like­ly to cause base­ment seepage.

For exam­ple, except for arid areas in the west and south­west, most homes in the Unit­ed States are fit­ted with a gut­ter sys­tem along the eaves of their roofs. These gut­ters catch rain water as it runs down the slope of the roof and car­ry it off to downspouts.

If the gut­ter becomes clogged with leaves, pine nee­dles or oth­er debris, it can no longer catch and hold the water. When this occurs, the water will sheet off the edge of the roof and fall to the ground right next to the foun­da­tion, soak­ing into the soil in the back­fill zone and cre­at­ing the poten­tial for base­ment seep­age as men­tioned above.

If this doesn’t sound like a big prob­lem, con­sid­er that only one inch of rain­fall will dump approx­i­mate­ly 1500 gal­lons of water on the aver­age-sized roof. That’s a lot of water to end up in the basement!

Of course, the per­for­mance of the gut­ter sys­tem is only as good as the down­spouts they emp­ty into. Down­spouts are not as sus­cep­ti­ble to clog­ging because the water flow­ing through them usu­al­ly cleans them out but they are sub­ject to their own issues.

All too fre­quent­ly, down­spouts just end with a ver­ti­cal tube with­out any sort of exten­sion to car­ry water away from the house. In this case, all the rain water col­lect­ed by the gut­ters will be deposit­ed in a few spots, typ­i­cal­ly four or five, around cor­ners of the house and right next to the foundation.

Next stop? The basement.

There are a few oth­er cir­cum­stances that may lead to water in the base­ment but these are by far the most com­mon. In a future arti­cle, we’ll dis­cuss the ways these seep­age prob­lems can be detect­ed and repaired.

Whether you are a first-time home­own­er or a vet­er­an, you’ll need pro­fes­sion­al advice and assis­tance when seep­age occurs in your base­ment. At U.S. Water­proof­ing we’ve been advis­ing home­own­ers on how to keep their base­ments dry and healthy since our found­ing in 1957. Dur­ing that time, we’ve helped more than 300,000 sat­is­fied cus­tomers with their base­ments and have earned a rep­u­ta­tion as the leader in base­ment water­proof­ing and foun­da­tion repair in Chica­go and sur­round­ing areas. Why not ask for our free advice?

Tags: wet basements, basement seepage, wet basement seepage

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